There is some stuff about the tests here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=177030
"some
stuff" started sadly as crazy rumor, which got some dismayingly, uncritical tolerance!
It amazes me what assertions gain echoes on the Net. But enough skepticism came on to drive
the thread to clarity. But there should be by now (then was April'06) a published reference
from Lyon Equipment to cite. --guess that's another item to probe . . .
(I don't see anything in an quick glance of the Lyon site.)
Some of the nonsense uttered freely on the WWWeb in that UKClimbing thread:
"dyneema is the generic name ... Spectra is the trade name": bulloney, they are both
trade names for HMPE/UHMWPE/HPPE (a trio of acronyms ending in "PE" for
"polyethylene", between which there might be some different meanings).
">> The tighter the turn the fewer strands of rope on the outside of the turn actually bear the initial load in any fall,
>> hence they can break more easily.
>
> I had that explained many years ago, tying a fig 8 knot should be done with the loaded side of the rope
> on the outside of the knot to reduce the risk of it failing.
Rather, I believe one will find that it's the material on the
inside of the curve, which gets so
tightly compressed, that breaks; this is what I've found in cases of laid rope, assessing where
each of the three strands were at the point of rupture, and which of them (often only one or two)
broke. (I can only imagine what sort of image this commentator would point to as showing the
knot he envisioned--likely another bit of sillyness!)
I couldn't find the other stuff I was reading about it, but a friend of mine met the bloke who did the tests
discussed here, and I understand that the guy who started the thread reported it correctly.
No, his initial report (the "OP") was nonsense; but this got beat into shape on scrutiny, and a guy
from the tester/Lyon, Pete Potter, came on to say "stay tuned ..." but I don't see the promised result.
Well, I'd like to see the "numbers" on this--the peak impact force, and the rated sling strength.
Might be that while we're waiting or seeking Lyon results.
As for the "melting", while HMPE has the lowest melting temp. of the cordage fibres
(or similar with reg. PE), it also has the lowest coef. of friction, and so makes less heat.
Melted ends seems a typical result to breakage by tensile failure, and not the cause
of it; by some rough calculation done in the above thread by a poster, the expected load
from the fall would be great enough to break the sling esp. knotted, and I concur in the
last posters' (hence, unanswered) skepticism about the usual "fall-factor" considerations
(i.e., that distance fallen is irrelevant, only FF matters--in fact, I recall that
durationat peak load(s) is greater for greater distances fallen, with dynamic ropes) for such
static materials; they're clearly wrong if there is no stretch, as clearly the impact force
of a long-falling mass is greater.
-------
Oh, on another matter, you remark that your highline material never contacts the metal
anchor device, as though this is a good thing. In one test of 8mm low-elongation rope
(BW II, I think) tied in a Strangle Noose (aka "Barrel Hitch"), the break came in the main
line where it entered the knot, not around the 'biner. (I'd guess the effective dia. of the
rope, given some flattening, would be approx. 6mm to 10mm metal.) Frictional heating
of your line within its nylon? sheath might well be greater than were it against the
metal (which dissipates heat). (I recall some testing done of rope pads, and there was
greater deletorious effect on the rope when using at least some of the pads, on cyclic
loading, then of rope on the bare concrete/rock, from the heat!)
--dl*
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