What do you use for fiinishing solutions??

[wydonknot]

Thanks, Rick, for the correction - I've now set everything to rights with correct URLs.

In reply to your question, Johnny, the solution will last for many months if kept in a sealed container in the cool and dark, i.e. the fridge.   However, if you're forgetful like me. after a couple of months, depending on the temperature, some black fungus could appear.   All is not lost at this point, as I just strain it through a paper coffee filter and use as normal.   I hope this helps.

Can I just take this opportunity to apologise to members, as a past President of the Guild, for not replying to questions on this Forum as much as I should.   But as a relatively new retiree, I expected to have plenty of spare time.   Unfortunately it just hasn't worked out that way.   I am busier now than I was when working.   I will try to amend my ways, but don't hold your breath

Jeff

[SlipJig]

In reply to your question, Johnny, the solution will last for many months if kept in a sealed container in the cool and dark, i.e. the fridge.   However, if you're forgetful like me. after a couple of months, depending on the temperature, some black fungus could appear.   All is not lost at this point, as I just strain it through a paper coffee filter and use as normal.   I hope this helps

The pot of stuff you left behind in Australia is still seeing useful service. 

[Frayed Knot Arts]

Can someone with experience on both sides of "The Pond" tell me if that UFP...UPV....UF.... the carpenter's white glue Jeff speaks of is about the same as "Elmer's Glue" here in the States?   As I said, my experience with a 1 to  3 solution was less than optimal.  Perhaps that.... ahhh.... (whatever) glue is of a different formula?

[Barry]

Can someone with experience on both sides of "The Pond" tell me if that UFP...UPV....UF.... the carpenter's white glue Jeff speaks of is about the same as "Elmer's Glue" here in the States?   As I said, my experience with a 1 to  3 solution was less than optimal.  Perhaps that.... ahhh.... (whatever) glue is of a different formula?

How Do Vince,

I think you will find them both to be PVA (Polyvinyl acetate) which is white wood glue; whichever side of the pond you happen to be on.
Though it is noted somewhere that you should add a c after the PVA part (PVAc) so as not to confuse it with Polyvinyl Alcohol.

I use a mixture of 1 part white wood glue (PVAc) to 1 part water (H2o), I find this works well for "me" and my uses
The glue I use is "Evo-Stik Weatherproof Adhesive" this dries clear and also has the added benefit of being water proof when fully dry; so if you use your items in a damp environment the coating will not show cloudy white patches, which I have found with some "white PVAc craft glues" poorer formula maybe?

I hope this helps?

Take care,
Barry ;-)

[JD]

I notice that here in the UK one can buy black bitumen paint, I was wondering if that was any good for finishing rope-work to give it more of an Olde Worlde look?

I am sure that if you use this it would need to be diluted with white spirit?

[KenY]

Johny,

I am sure I used some Black' Saddling '  tm  (nothing to do with horses) to black up some straw hats, and it worked well.

I think Failead used Black Cupranol when we worked on some Shrouds too.


Ken.

[Fairlead]

Sadolin (the wood preserver) works well on any natural fibre ropes - it comes in clear to black and it was the black we used on the shrouds Ken is referring to.

Gordon

[KenY]

Johnny,

Sorry supper got in the way, for me to correct my spelling.

On a second look, I found the tin,  SADOLIN  woodstain  (ebony)

Ken.

[JD]

When using a PVA finishing solution; is it best to brush it on, or soak the rope-work in a container of the stuff?

[Barry]

How Do Johnny,

Either way works, I have a jam jar full, that I use for dipping keyfobs, and small items, anything that will not fit the jar gets the brush.

Dipping is good for small items that have a wood or rope core as you can saturate the whole thing through, sealing it inside and out, you can do the same with the brush, just a little messier.

Also 2 or more thin coats will work and penetrate better than one thicker coat.

Take care,
Barry ;-)

Edit: meant to add "Less is more" don't go caking you ropework in a protective bomb proof shell, that will just detract from the work.

[TheKnotGuy]

On my website (www.morethanknots.com) I indicated the white glue 10:1 solution.  It works well on cotton provided you fully soak the cotton.  You can use different ratios to get stiffer results.  However, if you do that I'd suggest you pick up a mixer at a yard sale for cheap.  The spouse got upset when I took out her favorite mixer to work on rope. 

Another option on my website was to use Minwax polycrylic.  You can use a 50:50 solution on cotton and you can also use 100% on cotton where it's needed.  However, it can give a yellow tint to the finished product.

As for the whiskers, we left the work dry thoroughly, then used a blowtorch on a low setting to flash burn off the whiskers.  Obviously I'd suggest doing this on a trial piece so you can see how it would work on your finished piece. 

Hope this helps.

[JD]

I just tried the wood glue method of 1:4 glue to water on some work that I did using cotton cord. The result was good, but was surprised that I ended up with a matt finish?? In my mind I though it would be more silky.

[JD]

I have just this weekend mixed some PVA wood glue with water at a ratio of 33% PVA to 66% water. I then dipped all my varied bits of rope-work into the solution till the bubbles stopped coming to the surface. Bit like how one should treat submariners!!

They are now being sun dried ............. well supermarkets do the same with tomatoes to make them seem more exotic!!

I had assumed that the finish would be slightly glossy, but it turns out that on the cotton thread it is more of a matt finish. The colour line seems to be as before.