Author Topic: Appropriate bowline knots for rock climbing  (Read 3766 times)

Dan_Lehman

  • Sr. Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4056
Re: Appropriate bowline knots for rock climbing
« Reply #15 on: September 05, 2020, 08:14:06 PM »
I'm pretty sure that several lifetimes (and maybe
that of the rope vs. the shaker!) could be consumed
with "welded" knots, e.g. --and who knows what goes
on in setting a knot. 
In this context, we are discussing knots
 that are intended to resist becoming "welded",
especially in the context of resistance to shaking before any fall occurs.

In slack shaking tests with common life support rope
(including the likes of Bluewater II),
knots can be shaken apart in the span of minutes
, not lifetimes.

The "locktight" knots designed by me to be
slack-secure in kernmantle ropes such as used
in rockclimbing, shown here and esp. the ones
next to each end one
https://igkt.net/sm/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3888.0;attach=7199;image

don't loosen for me, in some quick shaking.
Nor does the designed-to-be-SWS Mirrored BWL
--both beside me still tied, shaken & stirred but
still tied, in 6mm kern (accessory stuff, moderately
limp-flexible).  Nor does the cited EBSB show any
hint of loosening.

Now, my particular 6mm is likely favorable towards
HOLDING : its flexibility enhances/eases the turns
that bind; its age (used only qua "play rope", though)
reduces slipperiness.  Newish thicker rope such as
key in tying in is another sort of beast.  And we can
look at PP springy rope, too.

Trouble is, there's not some Shake Machine onto
which we can attach our knots and push SHAKE
and then check back at periodic times to see
What's Shakin'?  --alas.  (Holding the eye legs
firmly and shaking can give some compressive
force on their going INto knot body; slapping
& bouncing the knot on the ground is perhaps
a better simulation of in-use abuse!?)


--dl*
====