- Yes, the Ashley Stopper is what I'm referring to.
This stopper exhibits a simple construction rule for
making stoppers :: form a noose; hitch the noose
onto its tail.
Despite the promulgation of this knot, there is little
good advice for tying it (and a few even IGKT authors
get it wrong (even
SmitHunter's bend has been botched!).
It's important to
set the overhand component tight,
as loading will NOT do this, and will try to pull the
noose-hitched/-toggling tail through it, to capsize.
Finishing with a slip-bight is one way to put an
extra diameter in this toggling part.
As for
"Ashley's bend" --a name given to #1452 by his friend
Cyrus L. Day--, that's a good knot to learn, nevermind all the
worry about "evil impostors" : TEACH THE KNOT, don't skimp
on it like knots books! (Even Ashley is pretty lame here,
not showing the various forms of #1452 and too quickly
dismissing the good #1425.)
SHOW how the combined/like draw of the SParts' turns
will twist the nipped tails --ever tighter when right,
and arguably evilly looser if not. (#1452 isn't so
vulnerable to spilling as is #1408=>9; rather, when
tails are oriented in what would see# #1409 roll
--and sometimes it rolls to secure form--, it just
can lead to a locking that potentially jams.
One might WANT this "jammed" form. (Not if one
is hauling hard on fine cord in some test; but in
rather common, 1/4" poly cord which has a springy
slickness to defy slack-security in many knots.)
As for the
butterfly, see Roo's image and just
rotate the right-side (grey'd) around the horizontal
axis (top part towards viewer & down --there is only
one rotation possible), AND THEN make the eye tuck,
giving a fig.8 component on the right side, and
--this is the point--
having the two SParts have like rotation as for the
Ashley knots. Better to load against the overhand
part, as the Fig.8 part will better impede jamming
of an unloaded SPart. YMMV per conditions.
- For the rolling hitch (aka Midshipman's Hitch),
I included it to show how a very simple modification improves the Taut Line Hitch.
Same as the single/double sheet bend, clove/constrictor hitch, etc.
I'm not sure what's being said, here. But what you should show
is friction hitches that grip with coil-back structures (as in the
rolling hitch) and then with a going-away coil (as for
the
Prohgrip/Blake's hitch, klemheist h.. AND point out
what the parts of the knot DO :: i.e., that the gripping comes
from the coil, and outside of that is knotting just to hold
things in place; and, e.g., one might include a *guard*
(my term) structure that is just a coil (coil-back), jammed
as
midshipman's often are (aka "awning hitch") or
not, which lead to complete knot --a 2nd gripping, the
first maybe giving one ease of tying the 2nd, and IMO
additional holding power.
(IMO, "tautline" is a noose structure working as a sort
of adjustable loop, and using a
rolling hitch knot.
Re the latter, and also the simple
clove h., one should
show how an
overhand stopper'd tail gives security;
and how a
slip knot enables slipping both the stopper
and the main knot in one fell soup. (-;
The Directional Fig-8 Loop is included primarily so it can be used in the Trucker's Hitch
Why do this (too clever by half)? Putting in a
bowlinewith a bight yields a 2-eyed sheave for distributing wear
of the haul line?! Or just the simple knot usually used.
But here is where considering different materials will
shed light on knot choice.
--dl*
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