Author Topic: How to tie a most secure Eskimo-like bowline.  (Read 5417 times)


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How to tie a most secure Eskimo-like bowline.
« on: November 09, 2013, 05:42:33 PM »
   To further secure a common bowline, the simplest thing we can do is to just add a second, auxiliary collar around the eye leg of the Standing part - as a second line of defence against any possible slippage of the Tail end. However, in an "Eskimo"-like bowline this eye leg is already collared, and, to add a second collar we have to drive the Tail end through a longer and much more complicated path, and so to increase the complexity of the knot much more ( See, for example, the *8*-shaped collar structures used in the Pretzel hitch-based and Girth hitch-based "Eskimo"-like bowlines (1)).
   There is one particular "Eskimo"-like bowline where the nipping structure is so tight and so well self-stabilized, that a second collar may not be needed at all. This nipping structure is able to impede any slippage of the returning eye leg by itself, even in the absence of the first collar ! It is the "Eskimo"-like bowline tied on a Pretzel-shaped nipping structure, shown at (2).
   As we have discussed many times in this Forum, there are two variations of the common bowline, but four variations of the "Eskimo" bowline - depending on the position of the Tail "over" or "under" the continuation of the returning eye leg. It can be argued that the two "under" variations are more secure, because the Tail is better secured in between the "step", provided by the Standing part s first curve, and the 'handle", provided by the "inverted U" -shaped continuation of the eye leg.( See them at (3)).
   However, if we use an already most tight nipping structure, which can restrict the slippage of the returning eye leg without much, or even without any help a collar can offer, there is no point to drive the Tail end through this route - so there is no advantage to tie the Pretzel-"Eskimo"-like secure bowline the way we prefer to tie the simple "Eskimo" bowline. In this thread I show the way I consider the most promising, because the turn downwards of the returning eye leg s "inverted U" is sharper - so, presumably, the line is secured better right at its first passage through the nipping structure. As the collar itself would not be tensioned very often or very much, there is no point to "waste" any portion of the nipping action of this most tight nipping structure at the part of the line after the collar, the tail. 
   The attached pictures of one side ( the (1)) do not offer much help - the reader should follow carefully the path of the lines at the pictures of the other side ( the (2)), to see which of the two legs of the collar corresponds to the continuation of the returning eye leg, and to find which "inverted U" is sharper. 
This is not a knot.