Given the fineness of your environment --the small material and close tolerances, i.e.--,
I can't imagine a knotted solution to be adequate to your needs. ...
Maybe the simplest knotting solution is to turn the lines around the white plastic *peninsulas*
and then tuck it beneath this turn (perhaps with a 2nd wrap & tuck), sort of sheet bend,
blackwell-hitch-like locking!? (One need be chary of slippage from lack of sure nip of a
semi-flexible cord turning hard out of the hole and over a flat surface (with wrapped tail to nip);
a clamp could be the finish, now needing less pressure for effect.)
I like the sound of this but without the clamps. ...
Here is a diagram of what I think you have suggested: http://i.imgur.com/3RrSmYq.png
What would be a good knot to tie up the loose end to minimise slippage over time?
There are various ideas of securing this, the simplest being
an extension to what I said --which entailed tucking that
first completed pass beneath the start of the wrapping
(so, the tensioned line clamps down upon itself against
the flat --and this is an issue(!)-- surface). One might
continue with a 2nd wrap, trying with it to pass over
the tensioned line (which needs to be secured for when
it loses tension) and then under itself (
half-hitch)
to make a 2nd lock; and some 3rd pass & lock is likely
needed for better security, given the material & surface.
One can conceive of working in a
Gleipnir nipping here,
in order to become immune to the surface-geometry issue
(because the
G. will do nipping of material against material
and be independent of the shape & contact w/surface).
I've just realized that the fact that the underside is sloped may effect things.
And so affect them. It can
effect some assured positioning
via its slope, making a wrap press against the tensioned line,
e.g.. It should also ameliorate the sharpness of the turns
around this side of the object, much as I suggest doing with
an added cylinder, below. ...>>
Now, again, considering the relatively sharp (right-angle)
edges of the hitched-to object, I might favor using some
small
cylinder to effect the locking while also easing
the abuse on turning around the object. Here's what I'm
thinking of:
with a small cylinder, able to fit between the hole & side,
wrap the line over this ("O1") and around,
and then come back over ("O2") and tuck under the cylinder ("O3"),
and around ("O4") and back under again ("O5"), to secure the lock.
And re exact orientation of these wrap-&-tucks of the
cylinder:
start on the center-side of the turned-over... line,
but tuck at angle to pass on the away side of the
hole;
then wrap around and cross over both the starting-out
and returning-to-lock lines (top of cylinder),
and go between the first tuck and the hole, to finish.
= = ====O1O2O4 ===.......||B
= = = == = = = = ===.......||A
= =O3 O5 Hole= == ==.......||R
Pressure/tension of the wraps should press the cylinder
against the cross piece w/hole, trapping the tucked ends
to lock. Working the tie-off into proper tension will need
to come after getting the wraps & tucks into place.
---dl*
====
