While these forms of wrapping a box works, I find the knot to be far less secure than simply
making two separate knots. One circumnavigating east/west and the other running north/south.
Yes, because in this case, loading in certain directions bears against
only a tensioning strand, and thus pulls it out w/no consequent
increase in the turn's nip. Although, OTOH, there is some appeal in
the tensioning part of this tying, in that the pulling of the ends gives
direct tensioning/draw upon the nipping turn (turNip), as the ends
of all parts where they bend around the box could here be nailed
in place at that point -- the tensioning happens of parts entirely,
immediately, on the box face.
Which is my continued problem with liking this presented turNip structure
(Alpineer, food tastes need help; but "turNip" can refer to the effective
binding structure, NOT to this particular implementation using it -- fair enuff?)
--: I find WAY too much friction in the path of reaching the turNip from
the ends -- i.p., going around FOUR corners (top left, bottom left, bottom
right, top right & the reverse for the other end).
So, maybe re the flattened cardboard relative dia. of twine and firm
smoothness of cardboard helped; and with the bike-mount, I'm still
surprised, though similar considerations must've been in play. On my
pulley & 'biner loading, of course, there were just those two, smooth
bending surfaces (and largely the proof there was of holding imparted
force, more than gaining and holding gained tension).
I just tried 3/8" laid rope around some books, much like Inkanyezi's photos
(which I think show 5/16" or smaller dia. rope); there was just no good
transmission of hauling tension around the books into the turNiPart. boo.
So, I've tried a structure similar to one I dreamed up for lobster-pot,
entry-net-cone tensioning (thin cords pull out taut/open netting cones
into which lobsters move, seeking the bait). In that, one begins with a
Girth Hitch to inner anchorage part of the trap, then on a short end one
ties a stopper knot, and the parallel line makes the turNip around this
must before the knot, and continues through the netting ring and back
through the turNip: hauling on the end
rolls the turNip until it
firm abutts the stopper and tightens around the end pulled through it;
finish with HHitches or stopper the end.
Consider: I read that an oval 'biner has an efficiency of 70% (mind you,
though, I just suspended 50# opposed by 25# in 8mm kernmantle and
IT HELD STEADY, suggesting 0.5 efficiency thus), so how good can the
corners of many objects be, compared to that (180deg vs. 90deg bending)?
At 0.7, 35# hauling tension amounts to 9# or so coming into the turNip
-- not a lot of help, there.
For this general binding, with the design goal being to bring hauling
tension more immediately into the turNip, I have tried this:
[for objects with flat surfaces]1) place a bight near one surface edge and take both legs away,
back around the object,
2) bringing one end all the way back to turn through the bight,
and
3) into a turNip formed in itself (which one could form in the same
capsize-a-half-hitch method used in the bowline quick-tying);
4) bring the other (shortened to about this length, ideally) end
through the turNip in the opposite direction (as per Gleipnir binding),
and
5) tie a HHitch with this 2nd end around the first, or just put a stopper
in it (alternatively, leave it unsecured beyond the turNipping).
And now one hauls on just ONE end, which "2-to-1" pulls on the
initially formed bight of material going around the object corner,
which "2-to-1" line's anchoring is the turNip -- QED, getting tension
near immediately, mediated only by the friction in the bight.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Re tying the Dahm hitch, take the tied stucture and gradually capsize
it in order to reveal a perhaps better way of forming it via capsizing.
I read Inkanyezi to have done this sort of capsizing but with only one
end, needing yet to reeve an end through the turNip; one should be
able to do it with both ends, hauling jointly on them to first capsize
/form the turNip and then immediately continue tensioning it all.
Given the points about frictional resistance, above, the imparting of
the turNip via capsizing should help consume any slack in that part,
giving a good beginning tension hoped to be increased (but, as I
note, problematic in getting force fed to it). I.e., putting a turNip
into a previously straight line will necessarily shorten it, tighten it.
--dl*
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