International Guild of Knot Tyers Forum

General => New Knot Investigations => Topic started by: xarax on April 03, 2015, 10:52:21 AM

Title: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: xarax on April 03, 2015, 10:52:21 AM
   A disadvantage of the (Single) Locked Cow hitch is that, although it is TIB ( in its slipped-tail form, (1) ), it can only be loaded from the one end. Trying to deal with this, I had tied the "tight hitch" shown in the attached pictures. It is TIB ( and it can be tied in-the-bight, starting from the Cow hitch, very easily ), and, once pre-tightened, it can be loaded by any end, or by both ends.
   Its disadvantage is that it can not be untied as easily and instantly as the original Locked Cow hitch - and perhaps that, at the first sight, to tie it in-the-bight may not seem so intuitively simple and obvious. 

1. http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=4673
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: enhaut on April 03, 2015, 08:36:09 PM
"it can be loaded by any end, or by both ends."

I had to take a try at that considering it's a excellent characteristic for an hitch.

Again maybe this was done before; from the base at picture 1, simply go around the spar and pass through openings.
One can use opposite opening (x) but I dont see any advantages.

Sadly it's not TIB but I believe this hitch can be loaded both ways.

Picture 1 the base
Picture 2 different states of the hitch
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: enhaut on April 03, 2015, 11:06:49 PM
 The disadvantage of your hitch is that the initial symmetry is distorted under heavy loading, so, at the end, the two locking openings, the "keyholes", do not nip the penetrating lines with equal force. Moreover, pre-tensioning the nub while it lays on the pole tends to widen it, rather than shrink it, so one has to pre-tension it in-the-hand, and then he can not utilize the mechanical advantage offered by the Cow / ZigZag configuration.

I just tried using the "central" opening (it's not an opening you have to widen the torsion in the middle of the base to access it)
Now the hich is more tight some deformation yes but much less. Try it!
Sorry no lux enough here for good photos believe me the hitch is tight enough now that I use this new solution.
Title: Bull Overhand hitch ( not-TIB )
Post by: xarax on April 03, 2015, 11:35:44 PM
.
Title: Bull Pretzel hitch (TIB)
Post by: xarax on April 05, 2015, 04:19:27 PM
   I can not predict which of the two can be pre-tightened by bare hands more tightly, this Bull Pretzel hitch, or the Bull Clove hitch (1) - because it seems that, although the Clove "lock" is tighter, the "Pretzel" configuration enables, perhaps, a more efficient utilization of the mechanical advantage offered by the underlying Cow / ZigZag U-turning path of the Standing Part on the surface of the pole. 

1. http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=4748.0
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: xarax on April 05, 2015, 11:29:22 PM
   One may wonder, why we had to wait 4 years, from the time those similar hitches ( in the way their "locking" mechanisms work ) were presented in (1), until we were able to find the Bull Pretzel hitch - which is even simpler than them ? I mean, I reckon that if I had waited a little longer, I would had probably learned this hitch from its creator Himself !  :) :)
   It was not the nipping and "locking" properties around penetrating lines of the overhand knot, or the Pretzel, or the axially or point symmetric "fig.8" knot, or the Clove, that were overlooked or were underestimated. The most essential element that I had not realized at that time, was that I had to start from the Cow hitch - that is, the penetrating lines, the continuations of the ends, should, right after they enter into the nipping / locking structure, move around the pole in a symmetric regarding themselves way, in the same clockwise or counter-clockwise direction - and not in a symmetric regarding the pole way, the one clockwise and the other counter-clockwise, as I had thought they would better do, in order to be weaved into a more balanced, stable knot. The nub of a "tight" 2-wrap hitch does not need to be balanced by the pull of each of the two wraps from a different side of the pole ! As the ends of the wraps are "locked" into them, the nubs are balanced, even if both the on-going and both the returning legs of the wraps leave the nubs from the same side. Moreover, what is paramount for a really "tight hitch", is not only to incorporate a tight nipping/locking structure, and remain tight, but to allow us to pre-tension it as tightly as possible, and become tight, right in the first place - and that is only possible if we utilize the mechanical advantage offered by the zigzag path of the Standing Part on the surface of the pole, of the humble yet marvellous Cow htch.
   So, the "key" which enabled us to solve this problem was not a particular tight "locking mechanism" of the Standing and the Tail Ends, but the mechanism which helps us to pre-tighten the hitch as tightly as possible by pulling those ends - and this was the mechanism of the zigzag-like Cow hitch.

1. http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=3197
Title: Re: Bull Pretzel hitch (TIB)
Post by: Dan_Lehman on April 06, 2015, 04:58:08 AM
   Congratulations, enhaut !  :)
   We have found what we were searching for : a simple," tight" and TIB hitch, [that] can be loaded by any end, or by both ends.
Yea!

Several years ago, I found, in a small maritime museum on the
Chesapeake Bay of Maryland, USA, an exhibit with a net having
brick weights tied by Ashley's #1696; but as they had a square
(reef) knot
joining ends on the around-the-brick wrap, presumably
the tyer --and I think also Ashley-- didn't realize that the knot
was TIB!  It led me to fiddle around with other structures
that might suit such gearing, and I came up with Ashley's #1695,
a cow hitch noose; and I theorized that any such noose that
had a TIB *hitch* component was itself TIB --and I think
that this is proved by the possibility of flyping the hitch around
a twin bight of the structure's S.Parts drawn through it.

In any case, the knot just presented here will serve the function
nicely, as well; it's more surely tightened than #1696.


--dl*
====
Title: Re: Bull Pretzel hitch (TIB)
Post by: xarax on April 06, 2015, 05:20:39 PM
it's more surely tightened than #1696.

   Hmmm... I am not so sure about that.
   Mind you that all those tight hitches should better be pre-tightened by pulling their two ends in an alternating way, the one after the other - so we can deliver all the force of our bare hands on each one of them, and exploit the mechanical advantage offered by the Cow - ZigZag mechanism more efficiently.
   THAT judgement is now my current problem : which one of the three TIB Jam knots / "tight" hitches / binding knots, the "new" Bull Clove hitch (0), the "recent" Bull Pretrzel hitch, or the "old" ABoK#60 hitch / ABoK#1126 ( double Ring knot, Tag knot, double Running knot ) / ABoK#1695 ( double Strap hitch )(1)(2)(3), is preferable ? ( I think I will better start a new thread on this issue...)
   
0.  http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=4748
1.  http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=4748.msg31275#msg31275
2.  http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=4748.msg31771#msg31771
3.  http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=4748.msg33153#msg33153
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: enhaut on April 06, 2015, 06:47:09 PM
A job well done Xarax, hats off to you (or your mouse!) for finding the correct openings leading to the "TIBility"

Concerning this feature I am not sure if I did it the right way, have a look please at the picture and tell me if my slipped overhand (pink rope) is correctly done.

On the same frame at the left lies the Bull Prezel hitch made of Dyneema on a slippery pole, I was thinking maybe... but no it is very stable.
Just good news.
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: xarax on April 07, 2015, 06:42:29 PM
   It should be mentioned that this hitch can be tied very tightly, even around a pole of a small cross section - or around a "hitched" / main line of the same diameter as the "hitching" / attached line. Therefore, it can be used in some applications where we want a semi-permanent such joint, which will be able to remain firmly attached in its initial position on the main line even if/when the end(s) of the attached line are not pulled any more - as a substitute to the less tight Prusik, for example.
   
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: xarax on April 07, 2015, 07:05:48 PM
   Given the ability of this tight hitch to grip even a same-size penetrating line very efficiently, I had tried to use it as a nub of an adjustable loop. It works, but since we have the much more easily and quickly tied, and tied-in-the-bight, Pretzel loop, I do not see what more this hitch can offer in this role. 
   Now, in such an adjustable loop, one can pass the continuation of the returning eye-leg through the two openings of this nipping structure the correct-more secure way, from the "higher" to the "lower" openings ( that is, from the opening near the Standing End to the opening near the tip of the eye ), or the wrong-less secure way ( which we can also denote as "Dan Lehman s Quick8 way"  :) ). However, I see no compelling reason we should load our toolbox with those two knots.
   ( Nevertheless, I had taken some pictures of them, where I had forced them to capsize and be turned into double bowlines. See the attached pictures, posted here for the record )   
Title: Single Locked Cow hitch (EEL)
Post by: xarax on April 30, 2015, 03:21:50 AM
   I would like to return to the hitch presented in the first post of this thread, and show a variation of it, which seems to me more satisfactory, if we want a hitch which is Either End Loadable (EEL).
   I had noticed that, in the knot shown in the first post, there are some angles of the "second" end ( relatively to the "first" end and to the axis of the pole ) which lead to some instability. In particular, when this "second" end is the one which is loaded, and if it is pulled hard and from some unfavourable orientations, the nipping turn around the leg of the bight ( which is formed in its continuation ) may rotate, and the angle between its own free end and the "locked", "first" end may cease to be close to the optimum, "right" angle ( 90 degrees ).This may lead to a weakening of the locking mechanism, because the two ends may slide the one on the surface of the other ( as their contact area will be increased, they will not "bite" each other deep enough any more ), the "first" end will slip through the "lock", and the corresponding wrap will release its tight grip on the hitched object.
   I think I had addressed this issue, by changing the path of the second leg of the nipping turn, as shown in the attached pictures. The hitch in this variation of the original Locked Cow hitch remains TIB, and also remains EEL, it is as easily tied in-the-bight as the variation shown in the first post, and its ends are locked equally well. Moreover, I think that now the orientation of each of the two ends relatively to the orientation of the other, and to the orientation of the axis of the pole, does not play any significant role : once locked, both ends remain locked, and any influence the pulling of the one may have on the other, does not weaken the locking mechanism, whatever the angle between them and the axis of the pole might be.
   By coincidence, just a few hours ago I had read some comments of dan Lehman, on the original Locked Cow hitch, which made me mad, as always... :) :)  However, I believe that this new variation will address, to some degree, an issue he has pointed out there, that it is better if the locking mechanism of the ends does not require their "squeeze" by the surface of the hitched object.
I continue w/doubts and want... independence of pinning tail vs. object, please!  Let's pin tail with cordage alone, and be sure!)   ;)
   
   Of course, such independence can be achieved 100% only in the hitches-nooses, like the Bull Clove hitch, not in the snug hitches, like the Locked Cow hitch - but I believe the variation shown in this post is more satisfactory regarding this matter.

   Note 1 :
   Although those variations can be loaded by both ends, indeed ( i.e., they are EEL = Either End Loadable ), they can not be pre-tightened by both ends ! The continuation of the "second" end contains a nipping loop, which does not allow any further transfer of the tension to the corresponding wrap. If one demands such a feature, he should tie a tight hitch-noose, like the Bull Clove hitch.
   Note 2
   The first time I tied this hitch was when I tried to modify the original Locked Cow hitch, so it could "work" even if it was tied around a Gargantuan pole !  :)  After the recent discussions on the versatility of an EEL TIB knot, be it a loop or a hitch, I got rid of the overhand knot tied on the "second" end, so the hitch, even when/after it will be loaded by this end, will remain easy to untie ( overhand knots and fig.8 knots clinch tightly around themselves, forming rope-made ratchet mechanisms which accumulate tensile forces, and eventually jam ). It was the general geometry of the overhand knot that was needed to form the nipping "neck", not the toplogy - so, the simple nipping loop used in the hitch presented in this post is enough - and allows the knot to remain TIB.
   http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=4975.msg32850#msg32850
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: Tex on April 30, 2015, 03:13:33 PM
It seems to me that the better a hitch is at securing its tail, then the worse it may be at binding and that's especially true if you require it to be secured without use of the object. 

To be good at binding you need as much unhindered rope tansferring tension for as many turns as possible.  The ideal binding hitch is a staple driven into the tail of the rope, after passing it around the object a few times.  If however, you must use friction, to bind it, then you must use friction from upstream rope to bind it you will partially lock out the tension not just at the tail but farther upstream.  To get any tension you must lock the rope eventually, but cutting off turns early, cuts off mechanical advantage. For continuous unkotted(no true versatackle) rope, mechanical binding advantage is all about turns, zigged, zagged, or circled ones.  This is all a balancing act.  The advantage to pinning the tail against the object seems to be that you use less friction budget from the rest of the rope. You can snag twice as hard on the tail as the upstream that way and cut 1/3 of your tension off upstream and 2/3 at the tail (closer to the staple method).

 On the other hand, and I think this is dl's point maybe?  How good does a tight hitch really need to be at binding?  That depends a bit on what angles you're tugging at probably. Obviously you want some binding or you'd use a fixed loop instead.  Still there's a scale probably between binding and security.
Title: Locked Cow hitch ( EEL )
Post by: xarax on April 30, 2015, 03:29:26 PM
   More pictures of this EEL Locked Cow hitch.
   In order to tie it in-the-bight, I believe that it would be easier for the knot tyer to "see" it as a Cow hitch with an added, third wrap, which first "swallows" one of the other two, and then shrinks, to become a nipping loop, encircling the end leading to the other wrap and the tip of the Zig Zag ( the tip of the U-turn of the path of the Standing Part on the surface of the hitched object ). Once again : The "third", added wrap, swallows one of the other two, and then shrinks, and becomes the locking nipping loop.
   Of course, the tying in-the-bight of the original Locked Cow hitch is more conceptually simple and straightforward, because all one has to do, is to tie a common Cow hitch in-the-hand, then insert it in the pole, and then pass the one end "under" the other, around the one leg of the bight, and finally under the two wraps. However, I believe that if, in this EEL variation, one visualizes the nipping loop as a shrunk third wrap, he can easily figure out how to tie the knot in-the-bight, starting fro a Cow hitch, without having to remember anything else.
   There is another way of tying this hitch in-the-hand and in-the-bight, in which we do not start from the Cow hitch, but from the bowline ( the "Eskimo" bowline ). If we "see" the nipping loop as an "Eskimo" bowline s nipping loop, it becomes immediately obvious : all we have to do, is to form a bight on the returning eye leg of an "Eskimo" bowline, twist it 180 degrees, and then reeve it through the nipping loop. The eye of the "Eskimo" bowline, and the eye of this reeved bight, become the two wraps of the hitch. Tying the knot this way, we may claim that it can also be considered as a two-eye noose, which encircles the object, shrinks, and forms a two-wrap hitch. Unfortunately, the inherent structural relation with the Cow hitch is concealed / lost that way - but the tying of the knot become so easy, that it will be difficult to persuade a knot tyer to use the tying method which starts from the Cow hitch, just because it is conceptually, only, simpler !  :)   
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: Tex on April 30, 2015, 03:48:26 PM
Ok, I withold application of my last post.  While the tail is restricted  by a previous wrap, it's not clear here how much the previous wrap is restricted by the tail. 
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: xarax on April 30, 2015, 04:05:29 PM
   The ideal binding hitch is a staple driven into the tail of the rope, after passing it around the object a few times.

   Noope ! You miss the point of the "tight hitches" ! The ideal binding hitch is one in which the two ends of the "nipping coil" can both be tensioned, and remain tensioned, so, for any given number of wraps, there is more friction between the wraps of this coil and the surface of the object. In other words, without adding more wraps, this is the only way you get more friction : pre-tension those wraps, and "lock" the inserted tension inside them. When, later, the hitch will be loaded lengthwise, the wraps will have less room available to become elongated, and slip along the surface of the object.  Therefore, you should use friction from "upstream" AND from "downstream", at the same time ! And you should "lock" both ends, the Standing End AND the Tail End, so any tension inserted into the wraps during the pre-tightening, by the knot tyer, phase, can be accumulated, and be present there during the tightening, by the load, phase. 
   Read what that is written about "tight hitches" in this Forum - starting from the tightest of them, the TackleClamp hitch, and the successive steps which led to it.
   Always do read what dan Lehman says ( when he is not just whining, which, alas, happens very often...), but do not do what he does, by saying but not showing - better, do what he does not do very often : TAKE PICTURES of the knots you tie, and then post them in the Forum - do not just "fill lines" by "keystroking" (  as I do...  :)). 
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: xarax on April 30, 2015, 07:31:13 PM
   Perhaps the easiest ( but not very transparent, regarding the reasoning which leads to it ) tying method of this hitch in-the-bight, is the one shown in the attached pictures : Starting from the nipping loop and the eye of an Eskimo bowline, we form a bight on the returning eye leg, then we twist it 180 degrees, and finally we reeve it through this nipping loop, the Eskimo-bowline-like way. The eye of the Eskimo bowline, on the one hand, and the eye of this bight, one the other, will become the two wraps of the hitch.
   I have to admit that I no longer see any cow in this field... :) I see a two-eye noose ( with "communicating" bights/eyes ), and, if I have nt tied it, I would nt be able to predict how on Earth this loose structure is going to be transformed into a "tight hitch" !
   Therefore, a knot tyer who learns to tie this knot that way, probably he/she will never understand how it "works", and will not see neither the mechanical advantage, nor the opposing bights locking mechanism involved.

( At the third attached picture, the path the axis of the pole should follow, while it will penetrate the eyes/wraps, is shown with a yellow line. It should go "over"-"under"-"under"-"over" the two pairs of legs, going from the left to the right.)
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: SS369 on April 30, 2015, 11:12:09 PM
This is indeed a very tight hitch. I found it quickly learned and easy to understand how it works. One must remember the twist or it does not work well.

I used BlueWater II 3/8" around multiple diameters (1"-3") of PVC pipe. Due to the diameter of the smallest pipe, the rope diameter was too bulky, but it still worked. I had only loaded the samplings to 300# and each was simple enough to untie. Although I would like to load it higher and I reserve personal judgement on the ease of untying till then.

This is a practical knot and I like this hitch.

SS
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: xarax on April 30, 2015, 11:36:56 PM
   Thank you SS369,

   Looking at your picture, I notice that you tie the Cow hitch in the opposite way that I use to do ( the mirror-symmetric way ). Are you left-handed ?  :)  :) - because I think that the right-handed persons will tend to place the "main", pre-tightening end ( the one which is connected to its wrap directly, without the intervention of the nipping loop ) at the left side of the picture ( or am I mistaken on this ? ).
   In general, in all those tight hitches, it is better if you pull the one end after the other, alternatively, but in this one you can not to this - however, it is good if you pull the "secondary" end from time to time during pre-tightening, to make the nipping loop shrink as much as possible, and "bite" the "main" end deeper.
   I have also seen that it may beneficial, just before the final pull of the "main" end during pre-tightening, to PUSH the rim of the nipping loop towards the surface of the pole, as far as it goes. That way you help the wraps consume the last millimetres of their length, and the final pull of the "main" end makes the hitch even tighter.
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: SS369 on April 30, 2015, 11:53:34 PM
   Thank you SS369,

   Looking at your picture, I notice that you tie the Cow hitch in the opposite way that I use to do ( the mirror-symmetric way ). Are you left-handed ?  :)  :) - because I think that the right-handed persons will tend to place the "main", pre-tightening end ( the one which is connected to its wrap directly, without the intervention of the nipping loop ) at the left side of the picture ( or am I mistaken on this ? ).
   

You might be mistaken. I believe I just flipped the knot to show some more details. I did tie it as the exploded view displayed it.

S
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: xarax on May 01, 2015, 12:37:46 AM
  I did tie it as the exploded view displayed it.

  If you were looking the "exploded view" in the mirror of your bathroom, indeed you did !  :)  :) :)
  A simple Cow hitch, tied on a pole, can be tied and oriented so that the two horizontal ends are running "under" the tip of the U-turn-shaped bight, or "over" it. Most of the times, I tie and orient it so that the ends pass "under" the tip. Except from the knot shown in the second picture of the first post, and the first picture of Reply#15, all the other Cow hitches are tied and oriented that way - including yours !
   Now, in that orientation ( when the ends pass "under" the tip of the bight ), the "main" end can be at the left or at the right side of the "secondary" end. In all the knots shown in my pictures, it is at the left - in your knot, it is at the right.
   See the attached picture, where I have marked the "main" end with a red line : it is at the right side of the "secondary" end, which is connected with the nipping loop.
   In the "exploded view" the pole is supposed to pass "over"-"under"-"under"-"over" the legs of the eyes, whish become wraps. It can not pass in any other way, and form a hitch. ( I will edit my picture, and draw a yellow line to show this path )
   Am I missing something, or should I buy a new pair of glasses ?  :)
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: Tex on May 01, 2015, 12:53:20 AM
Hi xarax, I didn't mean ideal tight hitch.  I meant ideal binding hitch, as in, one that binds ideally (but isn't probably ideally useful). An "ideal" tight hitch has to balance some factors and as such there probably is no single ideal.
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: xarax on May 01, 2015, 01:18:50 AM
   I see. You were talking about pure binding knots ( I do not believe that the term "binding hitch" makes much sense ).
   A "tight hitch" may serve as a binder, but if it is not of the noose-hitch kind ( like the Bull Clove hitch, or the ABoK #1126 - Double Ring hitch ), it will need the support, under the "locking" nub, of the surface of one bound object to work. Most of the times, it will serve as a most secure hitch, able to withstand a lengthwise pull better than the "old" hitches used for this purpose. However, such a hitch will be really successful in this role, only if it has 4, at least wraps ( the TackleClamp hitch, and the Locked Double Cow hitch ), and even 6 or 8 wraps ( the Locked Double Prusik hitch ). Hitches with two, omly, wraps, like the ones  shown in this thread, if they are pulled lengthwise, they will slide, only they will slide slower and less, because their grip on the pole is much stronger than the classic snug hitches.
   So, a "tight hitch" has to utilize the tricks of the binders ( the Zig Zags of the Standing Part ), the tricks of the hitches ( the immobilization of the Tail End ), and the tricks of the Jam knots ( the immobilization of the Standing End ). Now, moebius demands them be not only TIB, but also EEL ! Quite a looong list of "purposes" !   :)
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: SS369 on May 01, 2015, 03:01:45 AM
  I did tie it as the exploded view displayed it.

  If you were looking the "exploded view" in the mirror of your bathroom, indeed you did !  :)  :) :)
  A simple Cow hitch, tied on a pole, can be tied and oriented so that the two horizontal ends are running "under" the tip of the U-turn-shaped bight, or "over" it. Most of the times, I tie and orient it so that the ends pass "under" the tip. Except from the knot shown in the second picture of the first post, and the first picture of Reply#15, all the other Cow hitches are tied and oriented that way - including yours !
   Now, in that orientation ( when the ends pass "under" the tip of the bight ), the "main" end can be at the left or at the right side of the "secondary" end. In all the knots shown in my pictures, it is at the left - in your knot, it is at the right.
   See the attached picture, where I have marked the "main" end with a red line : it is at the right side of the "secondary" end, which is connected with the nipping loop.
   In the "exploded view" the pole is supposed to pass "over"-"under"-"under"-"over" the legs of the eyes, whish become wraps. It can not pass in any other way, and form a hitch. ( I will edit my picture, and draw a yellow line to show this path )
   Am I missing something, or should I buy a new pair of glasses ?  :)


Nooope. No mirrors, nor smoke. ;D
No need for new glasses this time, either.

I had captured the image using a laptop camera, so, it was seen from an away (bottom) perspective, And when I held the sample to capture it one of the legs fell to another orientation. The non- nub leg fell to the left of the nub leg.
Flip your sample over and move the (secondary?) leg to the left and all is well. Same knot I do believe.

SS
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: xarax on May 01, 2015, 03:19:01 AM
   Of course it is the same ( mirror symmetric ) knot - and perhaps your orientation is preferable, because the end that should/could be pulled, is closer the strong, right hand... ( Although I pre-tighten those hitches using both hands - and both feet, oftentimes !  :) )
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: xarax on May 01, 2015, 03:40:05 AM
   In reply#15 I had taken pictures of four different views of the knot, and, in an effort to help the reader avoid the dizziness, I used labels of cardinal and intermediate directions !  :) ( NW, W, E, SE ) - but I guess that nobody had noticed it.  :)
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: xarax on May 01, 2015, 01:58:46 PM
   Pictures of the loose and the compact-tightened knot of the either-end-loadable Locked Cow hitch (EEL).
   Notice that if the hitched object was transparent or invisible  :), the loose knot would look like a two-eye noose ( where the one, the right side part, would look like a part of an "Eskimo" bowline, and the left side wrap like a bight formed on the returning eye leg, twisted around itself 180 degrees, and then reeved through the nipping loop of this "Eskimo" bowline ).
   However, if we "see" this knot as derived from such a double noose, the cow is not visible any more - or it becomes 100% transparent !  :) The knot tyer may tie the knot more easily, yet he/she may miss the deeper understanding of how it "works", which is always not a good thing...
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: Tex on May 01, 2015, 05:28:33 PM
   I see. You were talking about pure binding knots ( I do not believe that the term "binding hitch" makes much sense ).
   A "tight hitch" may serve as a binder, but if it is not of the noose-hitch kind ( like the Bull

Well, no, I was talking about the extreme of what a hitch lknot (with one standing end and one tail) would have to look like to optimize its binding properties at the absurd expense of its other properties.  I thought it was an obvious enough word play given the clearly useless example I gave, but apparently it wasn't.  Sometimes things seem more obvious in one's own head than in someone else's.
Title: "Cross-gartered" 3-wraps Locked Cow hitch
Post by: xarax on May 02, 2015, 05:13:01 PM
   All the various 2-wrap "tight hitches" can withstand a lengthwise pull much better than all the 2-wrap classic hitches - but not very much. Wrapped around a slippery pole, tied on a slippery rope, and pulled by a heavy load, sooner or later they will slide along the surface. To improve them, there is only one thing we can do more : add a third wrap.
   I understand that I forget things, but, fortunately, I do not forget what I understand... :)  We have seen, in the case of the hitches shown in ABoK s 22nd chapter, that the "cross-gartering" of the wraps is a most efficient way to improve a lengthwise-pulled multi-wrap hitch : Under a lengthwise pull, the wraps become elongated and elliptically shaped - but since their circumference increases while the amount of material remains the same, their tension increases, too.
   If we use the same method in a "tight hitch", where the wraps are already very tight, the situation improves. One has only to pay attention, and load the hitch from its lower point, so, under a loading from below, all the crossed wraps above its nub can spread along the surface of the pole, and, after they become elongated, they also become even more tight, so even more effective in "gluing" the hitch on the surface of the pole.
   See the same either-end-loadable ( EEL ) Locked Cow hitch shown in the previous posts, with the addition of one more wrap - which third wrap is free to drag along it the upper second wrap of the Cow hitch, and form a single 8-shape wrap on top of the lower first one.
   My preliminary trials convinced me that this third wrap is worth the added material, indeed ; the basic 2-wrap Locked Cow hitch now becomes a hitch able to withstand a lengthwise pull, even when wrapped around slippery poles and tied on slippery ropes, much more efficiently than any other hitch shown in ABoK - even than the 4- and 5- wrap hitches. The interested reader may compare it with any "classic", not "tight" hitch he knows, and report his findings.

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  Note :
  I feel I have to mention one more thing, that I have nt seen written anywhere ( perhaps because my knowledge of the vast knotting litterature remains rudimental...) : There may be a kind of leverage in such hitches, meant to be pulled along the axis of the pole, which can play an important role : it is the leverage made possible by the presence of a voluminous and properly placed nub, in between the surface of the pole and the end of the Standing end, which can work like a fulcrum. When we pull the one end which stems from the nub, the Standing end, the other end, which is directly connected to the wraps, tends to rotate around the axis of this fulcrum, and, provided that the geometry of the mechanism is favourable, it pulls the wraps with more strength, or it pulls them with less strength but more quickly, than the strength or the pace we ourselves pull the Standing End.
   If we could tie such a nub-fulcrum which could rotate around itself, and if the distance, from the axis of its rotation, of the point where the Standing end was attached, was, say, half the distance of the point where the direct continuation of the "lower" wrap was attached, we would had been able to get a 2:1 mechanical advantage. If it was, say, two times this distance, we would get a 1:2 mechanical disadvantage, but then even a small displacement of the Standing End could insert more tension into the wraps, by forcing the end connected directly to them to be "consumed" at twice the pace. I will say no more here - better ask TEX about mechanical advantages !  :)   
         
Title: cross-gartered Locked Cow hitch
Post by: xarax on May 02, 2015, 09:22:57 PM
   How do we tie the 3-wrap cross-gartered Locked Cow hitch, in-the-bight ? By following the same tying method with which we tie the 2-wrap EEL Locked Cow hitch, shown in Replies#18 and #28 ((1)(2)) - only now we have to transfigure the reeved bight into the form of an "8", and we have to insert the pole through both openings of this "8" ( or vice versa : make both openings of the "8" "swallow" the accessible end of the pole ). So we can tie it with the same simple method, only we have to twist 180 degrees the reeved bight beyond its middle once more, to form the two "upper" wraps of the hitch.

1. http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=5250.msg34831#msg34831
2. http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=5250.msg34850#msg34850
Title: Re: Single Locked Cow hitch II
Post by: xarax on May 16, 2015, 02:01:45 PM
   Sometimes I tie a "tight hitch", I pre-tension it as hard as I can do ( either by using my hands and feet, as a rower, or by hanging it upside down by its Standings ends from somewhere, and then jumping on the pole !  :) ), and I leave it tightly tied on the pole for weeks, even months, to see if it will loosen its grip on it - if it "creeps", because some parts of the nub are perhaps too tensioned, and will "give" / release some portion of the accumulated tensile forces after some time.
   See the attached pictures for the EEL Single Locked Cow hiitch, tied on two braided marine ropes ( next to the superb Locked Double Cow hitch, which is tied there for months, without any sign of loosening ). Both those "tight hitches remain as tight as the first day I had tied them.
Title: (Single) EEL Locked Cow hitch
Post by: xarax on May 21, 2015, 10:23:13 AM
   OK, I have made up my mind now - I decided that I prefer the version of (single) EEL Locked Cow hitch presented in this thread, in Reply#11 (1), and tied by the TIB method shown in the attached picture (*).
   I have seen that the other candidate, the Locked Cow hitch (B), presented in a response to squarebanksalaska s ingenious Alaskan hitch (2), although it is also TIB, it is also very tight, and it is also EEL ( Either End Loadable ), it is not so stable when loaded by the "other" end : when this is the end which is pulled, the nub of this hitch revolves around itself a little bit ( but much more that I would had wished ) and disturbs the arrangement of the segments of the rope in this area, which belong to the "locking mechanism". This motion does not unlock any end, but it does deform the nub, and, if nothing more, this transfiguration of the nub is not a nice sight. We expect a genuine EEL knot to remain stable when loaded by the one, by the other, or by both ends, and retain the same form always. A knot which, when loaded differently, changes forms, like a chameleon changes colours, may be also secure, but it does not offer the "feeling" of security - and the twisting and other motions of segments of the nub when it is heavily loaded, can hurt and wound the rope...

(*) I now follow the quickest, probably, possible tying method for this hitch : I Just form a Cow hitch in mid-air, with its ends "under" the tip of its U-turn, and then grab the one end, bring it "under" the other, then over and around the wrap of this other end, then in between the two wraps, and then out of the Cow hitch again. By just looking at the attached picture, the interested reader can understand the sequence of moves I describe, for the end of the initial Cow hitch which, at the start of the tying procedure, was at the right. 
   
1.   http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=5250.msg34820#msg34820
2.   http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=4739.msg30595#msg30595
      http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=4739.msg30666#msg30666
Title: The simplest Locked Cow hitch of them all.
Post by: xarax on August 16, 2015, 10:43:24 PM
   For a reason I can NOT understand, just one turn of the one end around the tip of the bight of the Cow hitch is enough to "lock" it - and lock it very securely ! I had met the hitch shown in the attached pictures by accident, while I was searching for something else - I could never imagine that it will hold, because its "lock" does not seem to involve any of the known to me locking mechanisms... ( So much for my knowledge of them ! ) Been almost crippled recently from pains in my spinal cord, I could nt pre-tension it by hand, and I had to do a trick I often use, that is, do not pull the rope, but step on the pole instead... :) I was quite surprized that, after some small initial slippage, the knot "locked", and became rock solid ! I was almost angry with this uexpected behaviour ! I started to jump up and down on the hanged pole, unable to believe that this round turn would not nwind and release the lock - but it did not !  And, on top of that, as one can easily see this miraculously simple locked Cow hitch is TIB : one turn around a TIB hitch ( as the initial Cow hitch is ) does not cancel the TIB-ness of the "wrapped", within this turn, TIB knot...
   Fortunately for me :), when I hanged the pole from the "other" end, the lock opened up :  this hitch is not either-end-loadable ( EEL). And so I was saved from the burden to have one more tight hitch to consider - because, when the hitch is TIB, I will always prefer it be EEL, too.
   " I supposed that everything of so simple a nature had already being discovered... ", etc. :)
Title: The simplest Locked Cow hitch of them all.
Post by: xarax on August 17, 2015, 11:48:54 AM
   It seems that those three segments in the innermost part of the nub, in contact to each other and squeezed in between the tip of the bight of the Cow hitch and the surface of the pole, form a "lock" which can not be explained in the way we were used to explain the locks based on the opposing bights mechanism. I just do not know.
   See more pictures of this unexpectedly tight and secure hitch, taken during daytime.