Thanks for reply - and corrections and terminology.
Please understand that, although the particular corrections are pretty solidly that,
knot nomenclature is a quagmire of confusion, so references tend to be
confusing no matter -- take care in what you read/hear vis-a-vis that!
It will take me some time to look at refs, as off sailing now, and I only have soft copy of ABOK.
Argh, the Fisherman's/Anchor Bend should be known to a person off sailing!
Here's verbal light: line goes around object fully and further (360 + 180 degrees),
to reach across standing part and then be tucked through the turn(s) just made.
(I write 'turn(s)' for although there's a sense of two, it actually can be really just
one that is fully manifest and bearing down upon the end, binding it against
the hitched object.) To visualize: if line begins by passing forward from you
over a rail, down around the backside and up around on the right of standing
part, over around back again, then now up and over top of the standing part
to be tucked now rightwards back against the rail under the "turn(s)".
And my suggestion is to use this knot vice the clove hitch in making what I
call a "noose hitch" . . .
-- structure is noose
-like in that ITS standing part
goes directly around hitched object, not participating
in the tangle
of the knot
but itself then being tied to with the knot of the structure
(the clove, or whatever)--
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . and in the orientation that has the "turn(s)" going AWAY
from the noosed object.
Did you try the "intermediate eye-knot", for want of better name, that I described?
By following your description --which is perspicuous-- you are going one half-turn
beyond the Fig.8 and then making the tuck, and the "loop" of the knot is the standing
part's initial turn to form it, with the object being what it turns around (unlike in an
where it would simply form a knob of material). And if you think
about it, the knot I just described can be seen much like this, but in fact going the
full *distance* of the Stevedore BUT having the end tucked only into the PLANE of
the "loop" and then sharply turned to run through the coils/turns of the knot, not
completely through the loop plane.
Trying your hitch in somewhat aged, laid, 3/8" polypropylene, I find that the turns
of the knot grip enough on the noose's S.Part to be drawn a bit away from the
noosed object and thus to leave the "loop" area too OPEN and unnipping of the
end -- the knot would come untied. This is a vulnerability aggravated by a relatively
larger-diameter object, mitigated by a smaller one and by slicker material (which
lessens the coil's grip and being pulled away). One could tie off the end with an
Overhand stopper knot to prevent the spilling, and the effect can be to some
extent of having a friction hitch gripping the noose's S.Part, which should be
pretty strong; this overall structure though will be bulkier than some other solutions.
And that friction-hitch-like grip should server to KEEP the knot tight when the
line is slack, which is a plus. It might be untiable by manually working the
coils over sideways, to pry loose the outermost turn, and thereby work some
of the line back through the coils and free the end.
I have tried it with polyester double braid and polished SS shackle and it does seem v secure.
Also quick to tie and easy to undo. Although I can find no ref to it, it is reportedly in widespread
use with yacht riggers in UK.
Thanks for the report from the field ("knots in the wild") ! Keep your eyes open,
no telling what you might see.